Around the World in (Approximately) 80 Days: Day 20: Back on Track to Mongolia

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Thank goodness I was not alone in this adventure, trying to figure out how to cross the border from China to Mongolia. This Russian guy Vladimir was the only other foreigner on the flight with me from Beijing where he's been living Beijing for over a year. Every 60 days he has to leave the country to renew his Chinese visa. He spoke English and Chinese well enough to help me out immensely. This was his first time crossing the Mongolian border, and he's not sure he'll renew his visa this way again. A simple round-trip flight to Hong Kong would do the job, even though Hong Kong is technically part of China now.

First sight of the Erlian airport on the Chinese side of the border was not at all inspiring.

Vladimir talks to the Chinese police who very kindly take us all around the border town, and then bring us right back to the parking lot where we were trying to avoid the Mongolian hustlers who wanted $10 each or more just for a ride to the border. I was pretty much out of yuan, but luckily Vladimir changed $20 US for me.

Importing fruits and vegetables from China to Mongolia is a big business, as I found out when I got to Mongolia where it's too cold to grow anything except icicles.

After sitting in a jeep going nowhere for a half hour, I struck out on my own. Vladimir and I said goodbye.

Shortly down the road I ran into two Russian guys who had hitch hiked all the way from Moscow and were on their way to Thailand eventually. So, of course, Vladimir came to talk with them and found out we could walk to the border and hitch a ride there.

I guess they've found many dinosaur remains in this area, hence the shaped hedges of two dinosaurs French kissing.

Erlain had some interesting architecture and seemed somewhat affluent.

A Soviet style building in northern China.

The road to the border was wide and empty. We kept looking for jeeps with Mongolian plates to hitch a ride.

Rainbow across the border. Luckily we found a family who agreed to let us ride with them and pay their driver $5 each. It is forbidden to walk across.

The older daughter spoke perfect English and attends a private American school.

Border crossing was pretty empty, no lines. I heard that on the train it stops for 5-6 hours at the border, to change out the width of the train wheels, and to go through passport control. I was surprised the Mongolians let us in without even a form, just a stamp.

The Mongolian family was also riding the train to Ulaan Baatar. I got an overnight sleeper for $16. Unbelievable since I'd paid so much for the ticket I forfeited.

I never did learn what these are, but they're very popular, kind of like nuts.

Coal workers in Zamyn-Üüd, Mongolia. Their boss came and told me not to take pictures.

We came across a cool Tibetan Buddhist Monastery.

Most Mongolians are Buddhists.

A lion to guard the prayer wheels.

Another Buddhist temple with people inside.

Yurts or "ger" as they're called in Mongolian, are very common. I learned that "yurt" is the Turkish word for the nomads' portable tents.

A priest spins the prayer wheels.

Vladimir was struck by how poor Zamyn-Üüd, Mongolia is, but I've definitely seen poorer, like in Tijuana, the border town 8 miles away from where I grew up and where my dad and his wife still live.

School kids looking sharp in their uniforms. I never wore a school uniform in all my years in public school.

More yurts.

We splurged at the fanciest restaurant in town, and shared a huge meal called "A Day in Mongolia." Notice what they call "Chicken Nuggets." Not exactly MacDonald's food.

This green stuff is not wasabi or guacamole, but more like a delicious butter. Homemade bread.

Vladimir is a happy camper. All he needed to do was leave China for a few hours, then come right back in with a new 60-day visa. He's not so sure he'll try this route again.