Day 6: Visiting Debrah's family in Nasipit, Mindanao, Philippines

Wednesday, Sept. 21, 2016

Notice General Luna, Siargao to the top right (NE). Boat from Dapa to Surigao City takes 2 hours.

Although our time in Siargao was much too short, at least Debrah and I got up early and walked across the street to the beach. The tide was high enough to swim, completing the picture of paradise: white sandy beach, graceful palms, clear aqua blue warm water. The young guy I’d gone horseback riding with last time was bringing his horses to graze in the cemetery.

Leading a horse to pasture in the cemetery.

Enjoying an early morning swim in crystal clear warm ocean water.

Underwater action.

We didn’t want to leave, but we had to catch a boat at 10:30 a.m. Catherine’s neighbors were up early, preparing dead pigs for lechon, the traditional whole pig roasted on a stick and another one to be cut up and cooked. There was also a whole carabao, similar to beef, with its bloody head looking at us. If I hadn’t decided to stop eating meat already, this gory scene would have been enough to convince me. The neighbors invited us to stick around and enjoy the feast, but we politely declined.

Lechon or BBQ pig is popular at any fiesta in the Philippines

Heads or tails? Carabao meat completes the feast.

Debrah and I flagged down a habal-habal or covered motorcycle taxi. The three of us plus our bags fit easily, and the ride to the port town of Dapa was a pleasant 30 minutes. There were surprisingly few restaurants, but we finally found one that served all meat dishes and a vegetable omelette, which I ordered. It arrived, kind of greasy and semi-ruined by a large dose of fish sauce. At least the mango-banana smoothie was great. Debrah ordered the typical Filipino breakfast: garlic rice, fried egg, and sweet pork sausage.

Debrah and I and our baggage fit easily on this habal habal taxi.

The 2-1/2 hour boat ride back to Surigao is beautiful, passing numerous tiny islands, some inhabited, others pure nature. A jeepney ride to the bus terminal where I sampled a local hot sweet thick coconut, banana, sweet potato drink called binignit with some friendly locals. Then a 4-hour bus to Butuan and another jeepney to Debrah’s family home in Nasipit. I’d never met her parents, two younger sisters and their grandpa, but I felt like I already knew them from Debrah’s stories and posts on Facebook. Her father had prepared some special vegetarian dishes for me while everyone else enjoyed rice, fish and chicken.

After dinner Debrah’s police officer boyfriend Harison showed up with mango-flavored ice cream. We walked downtown, which was humming with pre-fiesta activity, games, rides, singers and dancers. Everyone but Debrah’s mom rode the giant swinging pirate ship and screamed as it swung higher and higher. Having just jumped out of plane at 8000 feet the week before, I tried to remind myself that this was relatively safe. But it did feel like we might get flipped at any moment. The father, boyfriend and I all took turns shooting a BB gun at a target. I have to admit, I’m not a bad shot. But none of my shots quite hit dead center so I didn’t win the “junk food.” No kidding, that’s how they listed the prize.

Debrah's dad shoots a BB Gun, hoping to win the "junk food" prizes at a local carnival, while Debrah, her sisters and boyfriend Harison look on.

Of course I had to take my turn. I hate guns, except for target practice.

That target had no idea who he was messing with. No bullseye, but several close ones.

Debrah's younger sister Darianne enjoys the kiddie rides, but they all screamed on the swinging boat ride.

Debrah has been living and working in Cebu City for three years. She visits home two times a year, so this was a big treat for her to spend time with family. I was impressed by how close her family is. Only Cha Cha the dog wasn’t so sure about me, but everyone else welcomed me with open arms and was excited to practice their English. Their house is quite nice and two-story, but they apologized for no water. It wasn’t a problem because they fill buckets in the morning when there is water. I was given the big double bed in an upstairs room with AC and promptly fell asleep. It wasn’t until 4:00 a.m. when the jet lag monster woke me up that I realized that Debrah, her mom and youngest sister were all asleep on a pad on the floor beside me.

They gave me the only bedroom with AC, then all crowded on the floor beside the big bed where I slept alone.