Around the World in (Approximately) 80 Days: Day 33: Once Upon A Time in Kazan, Russia

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

The streets of Kazan were still dark at 6:00 a.m. when my overnight train arrived. I reviewed the 7-minute walking route to my hostel. Well, it only takes 7 minutes if you know where the entrance is, which I didn’t. I decided to stop in a well-lit Ramada Inn to double check. The nice English-speaking young man had never heard of Hostel Zeleny Dom, even though it was just a block away. He gave me a free city map and directed me to the next intersection.

One thing I’ve learned about Russian hostels. They’re in great locations, but hard to find. Hostel Zeleny Dom was no exception. Even as the sun began to rise and street lights were dimming, I could not find Ulitsa Chernyshevskogo 24/23. I found the 24/20 building and walked all around it. I found 24/24 and walked all around it. Finally, I decided it must be the big green building, but where was the entry?

Since it was still to early to check in anyway, I went back to the Ramada and asked the nice guy if I could leave my bags and go out to photograph in the dawn, then I’d come back for breakfast, which looked yummy for just $5. I also borrowed their wifi, which is when I discovered a comment on Trip Advisor saying that the entrance to Zeleny Dom (which means Green House, by the way) is in the back parking lot. I did find the right door, but no sign at all. Alina buzzed me in and showed me my top bunk. Two bathrooms with hot water, small kitchen, good wifi. Who could ask for more?

Leonard of Baikal Explorer highly recommended Kazan to me. I’m really glad he did because I’d never heard of it before and would have missed a beautiful destination. Very story book, classic architecture. Despite its population of 1.14 million, historic Kazan is very walkable. Its crown is the hilltop citadel with cathedral and mosque. I strolled the nice pedestrian zone with its little shops and and cafes, serenaded by a middle-aged woman playing sweetly on her violin -- just two blocks from my hostel.

Kazan is the capitol city of Tatarstan. The people are mostly Muslims, but not obviously as only a minority cover their heads. There are several mosques, but no amplified call to prayer. All the mosques except one were closed after the 1917 Russian Revolution and not reopened until the fall of communism in 1990. Surprisingly, some of the most impressive buildings in Kazan, like the Agricultural Palace (2008) and the Qolşärif Mosque (2005), are relatively new, but built in classic style.

The Kazan Train Station at 6:00 a.m.

Next door to the train station.

The Ramada Inn was a beacon of light, and this young man was my hero.

I decided to have breakfast at the Ramada for $5 while waiting to check in at my hostel.

Relaxing at the Ramada, enjoying the wifi and warmth.

I actually took a picture of this big green building before I realized my hostel was located in the back.

Ah hah!! There's the sign. Clearly visible (not) from the parking lot in back.

It's not the Ramada, but it's home. Each bunk has its own reading lamp and outlet.

Time to go out and explore Kazan.

Lots of beautiful souvenirs for sale, typical of Tatarstan. These nesting dolls are found everywhere in Russia. Toy balalaikas are also typical Russian.

Part of the romance of Kazan is its waterways. The city is located at the confluence of the Volga and Kazanka rivers.

Check out the three beauties on the right. Young Russian women are so stylish with their long legs, but wait until they become babushkas (grandmas). Ha ha.

I decided to replace the wool inserts in my free boots. This shoe repair even installed them, total price $1. I want to bring all these repair people home to California.

I bought a couple of scarves in this mosque. One of the men offered me a tour. This beautiful ceiling is in the men's prayer room. The word in Arabic is "Allah," one of two words I recognize in Arabic. The other is "Mohammed."